We're passionate about fabric at Sew Me Sunshine. Here's our guide to Econyl recycled nylon dressmaking fabric, and tips on how to sew with this type of dressmaking fabric to make activewear and swimwear.
WHAT ARE ACTIVEWEAR FABRICS?
Activewear fabrics are technical materials that help to keep you comfortable during exercise. Activewear fabrics tend to have a good amount of four way stretch and a good recovery, when sewing swimwear or leggings you need a fabric with a 4 way stretch with at least a 60% stretch.
Activewear and swimwear fabrics are most commonly made from nylon with added spandex. Nylon is a synthetic fibre that is derived from petroleum (crude oil). A specific substance from petroleum is put into a chemical reaction to form a cystalised substance which is then heated to form a molten substance. This is then put through a spinneret which hardens the nylon. The nylon fibres are then stretched and lastly they are wound onto a spool (this process is called drawing). The nylon fibre are then ready to be spun into garments.
The production of nylon is considered to have a negative environmental impact:
- Most of nylon is produced using crude oil which is a non-renewable resource. It is well documented that the acquisition of fossil fuels is harmful to the environment
- Once the specific substance is extracted from the crude oil the rest of it is normally disposed of
- Lots of energy is required in the manufacturing process
- Large amounts of water is required to cool nylon fibres
- The production of the main chemical used in the manufacturing process is known to release nitrous oxide into the atmosphere
- The manufacturing process uses toxic harmful chemicals
- The end nylon fabric does not biodegrade
WHAT ARE ECONYL FABRICS?
At Sew Me Sunshine a lot of our activewear and swimwear knit fabrics are made from ECONYL® (recycled nylon). Econyl is a trademark of the Italian plastics company Aquafil. They use pre and post consumer nylon waste such as old carpets, fishing nets, plastic components and so on which means that no fossil fuel based materials are required. The Econyl boasts the same properties as virgin nylon yarn. This type of nylon has the potential to be recycled infinitely without it ever losing its quality. However, it is important to note that Aquafil do not disclose the exact processes it uses to make Econyl, and it is highly likely that toxic chemicals are required.
WHAT ARE THE FEATURES OF ECONYL FABRICS?
- Quick drying
- Good elasticity (4 way stretch)
- Moisture wicking
- Durable
- Smooth and soft against the skin
- UV resistant
- Water resistant
- Chlorine resistant
- Retains it's shape
- Oeko-Tex 100 certified
TOP TIPS FOR SEWING ACTIVEWEAR AND SWIMWEAR?
- Pre wash your fabric
- Use a Cora Ball or GuppyFriend bag in order to reduce microplastic pollution
- Do not iron directly onto the fabric, make sure you use a pressing cloth
- When cutting out your project make sure the fabric is un-stretched and sitting flat
- If you have a rotary cutter then this might make cutting out your project easier
- You may find it difficult to pin the fabric, so fabric clips are a great option
- Use a stretch needle when sewing on a standard sewing machine, this will avoid skipped stitches
- Use a walking foot - this ensures that your fabric doesn't stretch when sewing, which will result in rippled seams
- If you are sewing on a regular sewing machine using regular sewing thread then use a zigzag stitch (narrow width 2mm with a stitch length of 1.2-1.5)
- If your sewing machine has the lightening bolt stitch then this is a good option
- Always test your stitches on a scrap piece of fabric. Stretch the test seam and if the stitches break then make the zigzag stitch narrower, or you can topstitch your seams (see below)
- You can sew faux flatlock seams using a standard sewing machine - sew the seam with a narrow zigzag stitch, press the seam allowances over to oneside, then on the right side you stitch over the seam (make sure you pick a stitch that allows for stretch - triple zigzag, standard zigzag, twin needle, lightening bolt, coverstitch)
- Alternatively you can opt to use Gutermann Maraflex Thread - Maraflex has a high elongation, which is ideal for flexible seams using a straight stitch (such as around necklines, sleeves, cuffs, activewear, swimwear), although you may still want to use a stretch stitch when sewing with this thread
- If you have an overlocker then this is a great option when sewing activewear and swimwear as it will give a professional finish and a stretchy seam.
- When hemming you can opt to just do a single fold as the fabric does not fray, just remember to use a stretch stitch
ACTIVEWEAR AND SWIMWEAR PATTERNS:
- Virginia Leggings - Megan Nielsen
- Cottesloe Swimsuit - Megan Nielsen
- Coralie Swimsuit - Tilly and the Buttons
- Ipswich Swimsuit - Cashmerette
- Faye Swimsuit - Closet Core Patterns
- AVERY LEGGINGS - Helen's Closet
- Limestone Leggings and Top Pattern - Sew Liberated
- All of Fehr Trade Patterns
- SIMPLICITY SPORTS BRA, LEGGINGS AND BIKE SHORTS S9620
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If you have any questions or want to learn more, you can contact Team Sunshine at teamsunshine@sewmesunshine.co.uk
You can find all of our activewear and swimwear fabrics on our website.