We're passionate about sewing and dressmaking at Sew Me Sunshine, and we love watching the Great British Sewing Bee every year. Every week we will break down the episode and sign post you to some sewing patterns and fabric.
The Great British Sewing Bee is back for 2024 and this year marks it's 10th season! We wish all the contestants the best of luck and know they will make some incredible garments.
This week we are looking at episode 5 which was India week. The contestants were tasked with making a traditional Nehru Jacket, transforming a garment made from madras check cotton and calico, and sewing a dress that was inspired by elements of the Sari.
As it was India week there was a special judge - Priya Khanchandani. Priya Khanchandani is the head of curatorial and interpretation at the Design Museum, London. Last year Priya curated a major exhibition celebrating the contemporary sari at the London Design Museum. As part of the exhibition there is a book that has been published called "The Offbeat Sari: Indian Fashion Unravelled".
Top Tip: To learn more about Indian Textiles head on over to this great article from the Victoria and Albert museum.
Pattern Challenge: Nehru Jacket
The first challenge was to make a traditional Indian Nehru Jacket. This hip length tailored jacket has a Mandarin collar and welt pockets. It was named after India's first prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru. This style of jacket was popular in Europe in 1960s and was worn by The Beatles. You can create your own Nehru jacket using a vintage Simplicity Pattern 7926.
As this is a vintage pattern it can be found on reseller sites.
This image was sourced from Pinterest.
This style of jacket requires a structured fabric such as a medium weight linen, linen blend or a heavyweight cotton. It can also be sewn using a jacquard or brocade but be mindful that this type of fabric does fray easily.
Washed Linen Cotton
At Sew Me Sunshine we stock a large range of colours in our medium-weight washed linen cotton. This fabric has a composition of 75% Linen 25% Cotton with a weight of 225gsm. It is sturdy fabric making it ideal for sewing trousers, overalls and jackets. It would be perfect for sewing a Nehru Jacket. We have it available in over 20 colours.
Medium weight washed linen cotton
L-R: Copen Blue, Dark Rose, Olive Green
Cotton Twill
At Sew Me Sunshine we stock over 30 colours in our Ventana Cotton Twill. This medium-weight fabric is structured making it ideal for trousers, overalls and jackets, including a Nehru Jacket. 
Ventana Cotton Twill
L-R: Lavender, Petrol Blue, Coral Stone
Sevenberry Nara Homespun Cotton
These Japanese imported cotton fabrics from Sevenberry have a linen like texture. They are fairly structured making them ideal for sewing yourself a jacket or a bag, and they would work well sewn up into a Nehru Jacket.
Nara Homespun Cotton
L-R: Patchwork Red + Black, Indigo Floral, Patchwork Green
Transformation Challenge: Making a new summer garment using Madras Check Cotton Shirts + Calico
In the up-cycling challenge the contestants had to make a new summer garment using up to 2 madras check cotton shirts and up to 1.5m of calico. We loved how the contestants used two different types of fabric to make one garment. The calico is crisp and structured whereas the madras check cotton is softer and has more drape.
Fact: Calico is one of the oldest materials in India. ‘Calico’ comes from the word ‘Calicut’ which was a European name for the city of Kozhikode, in Kerala (Southwestern India). It is a plain woven fabric made from unbleached and un-dyed cotton. It is often referred to as loomstate cotton or half-processed cotton because it hasn't undergone any treatment or finishing since leaving the loom. Calico is a medium weight fabric that has some structure to it. It is often used for making toiles as it is an inexpensive textile.
Fact: Madras Cotton is a lightweight handwoven cotton fabric with a plaid or checked pattern. It is referred to as Madras because it originally came from the region Madras, India. It is great for making shirts and dresses.
Everyone's ideas were unique and creative so we aren't able to signpost to specific patterns or fabrics. However, if you are feeling inspired to use a check fabric then we have lots of different check fabrics available for you.
Top L-R: Merchant + Mills Cotton Linen Acrobat, Merchant + Mills Cotton Linen Rhubarb + Custard
Bottom L-R: Cotton Double Gauze Check, Yarn Dyed Cotton Red + Green Sparkle Check, Yarn Dyed Cotton Gingham
Transform an unworn shirt using Greyfriars and Grace patterns
If you feel inspired to up-cycle a shirt or two in your wardrobe then you should check out Greyfriars and Grace. Fiona Alexander is the founder of Greyfriars and Grace and has produced a range of sewing patterns, some of which focus on reusing existing clothes and textiles. She has 3 amazing women's patterns that transform unworn shirts.
Made To Measure Challenge: Fit a dress that is inspired by elements of the Sari
In the made to measure challenge the contestants had to make an evening wear dress that was inspired by elements of the sari. Many of the contestants opted to use a single cloth and manipulate it in creative ways.
The word “sari” means “strip of cloth” in Sanskrit. It is a traditional garment made of one piece of cloth. There are over 100 ways to drape a sari around the body. The most common drape is the Nivi drape, which is pleated and wrapped around the waist with the pallu (embellished end of the garment) flung over the left shoulder.
The majority of the contestants opted to use non-indie sewing pattern brands which we don't stock here at Sew Me Sunshine, but if you are after a specific contestant's pattern then we recommend that you check out this blog post from the Fold Line.
Top Tip: To learn more about the history of the sari then head on over to this article on the National Geographic.
