We're passionate about sewing and dressmaking at Sew Me Sunshine, and we love watching the Great British Sewing Bee every year. Every week we will break down the episode and sign post you to some sewing patterns and fabric.
The Great British Sewing Bee is back for 2024 and this year marks it's 10th season! We wish all the contestants the best of luck and know they will make some incredible garments.
This week we are looking at the semi-final - episode 9 which was Icon's week. The judges set three challenges inspired by world renowned fashion design houses – Balenciaga, Gaultier and Chanel. The contestants were tasked with making a Balenciaga inspired dress, upcycling ties to make a wearable garment inspired by Jean Paul Gaultier and sew an outfit inspired by Coco Chanel.
Pattern Challenge: Balenciaga Inspired Dress
The first challenge was inspired by the renowned Spanish pattern cutter and fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga. You can find out more about Cristóbal Balenciaga was renowned for using new shapes that has never before been seen in women's fashion. He used balloon hems and designed dresses and jackets that were fitted at the front but had voluminous loose fitted backs. In 1957 he introduced the 'sack dress' which had no waist which was a shock to the fashion world. In the late 60s he created the well known 'envelope dress' which you can see in the image below. If you want to learn more about Cristóbal Balenciaga then head on over to this article by the V&A.
Image sourced via Pinterest via the V&A
The contestants were tasked with making a dress that featured iconic Balenciaga ideas. The dress was close fitted on the front due to a hidden belt underneath and had a gathered draped back. The sleeves were joined to the front with an underarm gusset.
Although there is no specific pattern available to recreate your own, there are two patterns that come to mind that you could use to make yourself a dress with a waterfall back. First you have the Vogue Dresses V1982 which is a fitted, lined cape dress that has a jewel neckline. You could also try the Waterfall Dress by Charm Patterns which is a dramatic fitted gown due to the hidden belt with a waterfall back.
L-R Vogue V1982 + Waterfall Dress by Charm Patterns
The contestants opted to use a medium-weight crepe fabric for their makes.
Crepe fabric is the result of highly twisted yarn. Crepe tends to have a crinkled texture with a pebbled appearance, and they normally drape well. Crepe fabrics vary in weight so it is important to take this in consideration when choosing a crepe fabric for your chosen project.
The properties of crepe fabrics depend on its fibre content (polyester, viscose, silk and even wool fibres are used to make crepe fabrics). Polyester crepe is one of the most common crepe fabrics used in the fashion industry.
If you are searching for a medium-weight crepe we recommend looking for terms such as double or triple crepe or crepe suiting as these crepe fabrics tend to be medium in weight with an excellent drape. They are more suited for garments such as trousers, blazers, evening wear and dresses such as the one that the contestants sewed in this week's challenge.
Transformation Challenge: Make a garment out of neck ties
In the up-cycling challenge the contestants had to use only neck ties and haberdashery (no fabric) to make an outfit. This challenge was inspired by Jean Paul Gaultier.
Neck ties featured heavily in Jean Paul Gaultier's Spring 2020 and Spring 2002 couture collection:
Photos sourced from Vogue via Pinterest
Everyone's ideas were unique and creative and as no fabric or specific patterns were used we aren't able to signpost to specific patterns or fabrics.
Made To Measure Challenge: An Evening Outfit inspired by Coco Chanel
In the made to measure challenge the contestants were tasked with making an evening outfit inspired by Coco Chanel to fit their model. Coco Chanel revolutionised women's fashion and challenged gender norms with her creations such as jersey suits, the little black dress and women's trousers. She was renowned for using boucle tweed, beautiful haberdashery and trims in her garments, and black and white fabrics. You can find out more about Coco Chanel on the Chanel website or The Met website.
The contestants opted to use a wide variety of fabrics, black and white fabrics featured heavily throughout. You can find all of our black fabrics here, and all of our white fabrics here. Boucle tweed was also used which you can find on our website here.
The contestants were inspired by different elements from Coco Chanel's years in the fashion industry and thus used a variety of different patterns for their projects.
L-R: Gracie Steel Blooming Bustier Dress, Simplicity S8875, Pattern Cos Patterns Front Buttoned Placket Mini Dress, Common Stitch Pipit Vest + McCalls Skirts M8150.